Day Thirteen
Sunday September 23rd 2012
Lochboisdale to Leverburgh, Harris
Mileage today - 62
Total mileage so far - 893
Down the pub last night a couple sat near me asked if I was on holiday. When I started telling them what I was up to, the woman said "we read about you in the paper last week!" Fame at last! The Stornoway Gazette contacted me a couple of weeks ago, they had heard about my ride and wanted to know all about it to do an article. Another couple on the next table also heard what I was saying and bought me a drink. All in all, a good night! I didn't stay late though, back to the 'bunkhouse' and another early night. You could hardly call it a bunkhouse though, I had my own very comfortable ensuite room! I was on the road at 7-30 this morning, wanting to get the sixty or so miles up to Berneray done whilst the sun was shining. There was a strong southerly wind blowing which made things nice and easy for me, it was on my back most of the way up through South Uist, Benbecula, and North Uist. These are amazing islands, so remote and windswept but with some stunning scenery. The sun was still coming up over the mountains in the first few miles, promising a good day. I was passing lots of ruined crofts, evidence of the cruel land clearances of the nineteenth century. I had intended staying at the Gatliff Trust hostel at Berneray, a preserved, thatched crafters cottage on the waters edge in an idyllic spot looking put across Harris Sound. I changed my mind and decided to get across to Harris on the 4-30 ferry instead. The weather was deteriorating, and the wind getting up stronger so I didn't want to risk tomorrow's early ferry being cancelled. Besides, the morning ferry is at 7-15am and I would have had to be up and out in the dark. Saw the first seals of the trip today, two big Grey's lounging on rocks just offshore. I booked in at the Ambothan bunkhouse, just off the ferry at Leverburgh at the southern tip of Harris. I think I made the right choice, it's a fantastic hostel, full of character, and with amazing views from the front windows. And i have got the place to myself, nobody else booked in! A good day today, something completely different, and on the ferry crossing I got talking to two cyclists who, between them, gave me £15 for the British Heart Foundation. Last day tomorrow, 60 or so miles to Stornoway.
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